Free crochet pattern Granny Square Triangles Bag

 Free Crochet Pattern

Triangles Bag

Materials:

• 3.0 mm hook
• DK yarn in 4 colours
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers 

Abbreviations (US terms):
MC = magic circle
sl st= slip stitch 
ch = chain
dc = double crochet

hdc = half double crochet
BLO = back loop only

Finished size:

My bag is 40 x 40 cm (15.75 inches), not including the strap. I crocheted 13 rows to get to this size. Depending on your yarn, hook size and tension, you might need more or fewer rows. Or maybe you want a bigger or smaller bag. Just make as many rows as you want.

About this Pattern:
This bag may not look like it, but it is made out of 3 granny squares. 
You can make the bag as small or big as you wish. Simply make as many rows until you reach your desired size.

This pattern is made in joined rows. You always leave all the yarns attached and pick them back up when you return to that colour. After every row, you will turn and work the other way.

Always keep your yarn threads on the "wrong side" (where your tails of the MC are), so all the ugly things will be on one side, which we will make the inside.

I made mine with 4 different colours, so both sides are different. If you want both sides to be the same, use 2 colours.

If you enjoy what I do, please consider supporting me! Every little bit means the world! Click here: Ko-fi.
Thank you so much!

AI changed the colours on this one: Fall/pumpkin themed!

My Triangles Bag will become my new Project Bag. What's yours going to be?

Happy Crocheting!

Pattern:
You'll need 4 colours, let's name them A, B, C and D.
R1: With colour A, make a MC.

R2: With colour A, ch 3, 2 dc in MC. Switch to colour B.

With colour B, ch 3, 3 dc in MC. Switch to colour C. When making the dc's, keep working over the yarn tail of colour A and your current colour.
With colour C, ch 3, 3 dc in MC. Switch to colour D. When making the dc's, keep working over the yarn tail of colour A and your current colour.
With colour D, ch 3, 3 dc in MC. When making the dc's, keep working over the yarn tail of colour A and your current colour. 

Pull MC closed. Ch 3 and sl st to the third chain of colour A to close the row. 

In the next row, you will pick up and drop your colours as you go. Make sure you crochet over the little thread going up the row. Also, give this little thread a bit of slack so it won't curve your square.

Here you can see the white thread going up after changing colour. 

Crochet over the thread that is going up, hiding it beneath the stitches.

R3: With colour D, ch 3 (counts as dc) and turn, 1 dc in chain space, 3 dc (one in each of the stitches of the previous round), 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour C.
With colour C, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 3 dc, 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour B.
With colour B, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 3 dc, 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour A.
With colour A, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 3 dc, 2 dc in chain space, ch 3. Sl st to the third chain of colour D to close the row.

R4: With colour A, ch 3 (counts as dc) and turn, 1 dc in chain space, 11 dc (one in each of the stitches of the previous round), 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour B.
With colour B, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 11 dc, 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour C.
With colour C, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 11 dc, 2 dc in chain space. Switch to colour D.
With colour D, ch 3, 2 dc in chain space, 11 dc, 2 dc in chain space, ch 3. Sl st to the third chain of colour A to close the row.

You will keep repeating this pattern. Start with a ch 3 (counts as a dc), one more dc in the chain space. Then a dc in every dc of the previous round. At the end, 2 more dc in the chain space and switch to the next colour. Then ch 3 with the new colour, 2 dc in the chain space, a dc in every dc, and so on. End with a sl st to the third chain of the starting chain.
Just repeat this untill you're happy with the size of your square.

Every row gains 4 dc, because you add 2 dc in the chain space at the start and 2 at the end.
R2 started with 3 dc.
R3 had 7 dc.
R4 had 11 dc.
Then 15, 19, 23 and so on.

Bag strap
Use any colour you wish. I used the same colour as the joining colour.
The bag strap is made with the Thermal Stitch. If you are unfamiliar with this stitch, I highly recommend this video (not mine): Thermal Stitch

Make a slip knot. Leave a long tail to later sew the strap to the bag.

Row 1: Ch 7 (this is 6 ch and the turning chain).
Row 2: 6 sc in the back bumps. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: 6 sc in the BLO AND the leftover loops of the previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat Row 3 until you reach your desired length for the strap. If you wish, you can change colour halfway, or maybe use colour A-B-C-D or something like that. When you're done, proceed to Last Row.

Last Row: 6 sc through the last row AND the leftover loops of the previous row. The difference is that you are not going into BLO, but through both loops as you normally would when making a sc.

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

Lay your 3 squares on a flat surface with the wrong side up. The middle 6 triangles will be the back of the bag (pink and grey on mine). The other 6 triangles will be the front (cream and purple on mine).

Put a stitch marker through all 3 chain spaces meeting in de middle (light blue in the picture).

Put a stitch marker through the 2 chain spaces meeting on the bottom right (orange in the picture).

Put a stitch marker through the 2 chain spaces meeting on the bottom left (yellow in the picture).

Now fold the triangles for the front onto the triangles of the back. The wrong side is now on the inside.

Put a stitch marker through all 3 chain spaces meeting in the middle (green in the picture).

Your bag should now have the shape that it's going to end up with. Make sure you are happy with the colour placement.

I like to attach some extra stitch makers halfway along the triangles to make it less floppy, but you don't have to do that.

Choose a colour to join the squares. I used the same colour as I used for the strap.

Before starting to join, turn the bag inside out. You'll work on the wrong side.

For the next part: Go through both loops on both triangles. Take your stitch markers out as you go.

Attach your yarn to both of the chain spaces on the bottom right corner with a slip knot. Chain 1. Then hdc into the same space. 
Work up to the middle of the bag, making a hdc in every stitch, crocheting the bottom triangle and the right triangle together.

When you reach the chain spaces in the middle of the bag, first make a HDC to connect the bottom triangle to the right triangle. Then make 1 extra HDC in only the bottom triangle.

Then make 1 hdc in both the bottom triangle and the triangle on the left.

Crochet down to the bottom left corner, making a hdc in every stitch, just like the other side.

When you reach the bottom left corner, make 3 hdc in the chain space.

Now flip over the entire bag so you can work on the other side. Do the exact same thing on this side, ending on the bottom left again. Make 2 hdc in the last chain space. Sl st to the starting chain and fasten off.

Turn the bag right side out.

Now you will add a border to the top of the bag.

Attach your yarn to the chain space on the top right. Hdc all around the top of the bag to make a border. In the chain spaces in the middle of the bag (back and front), put 2 hdc in each chain space (photo).
In the chain spaces on the top of the bag (left and right), put 3 hdc.

Sew on the bag strap on both sides of the bag. Sew it to the inside of the border.

Weave in all the ends.

Patch

There is a little patch crocheted between the two sides to make the front and back V less deep. Use any colour.

In the middle, there should be 2 hdc's. Attach your yarn with a slip knot to the first stitch on the right of those hdc's. Make 2 hdc's in the middle hdc's of the previous round. Then sl st to the next stitch on the left side (So: sl st - hdc - hdc - sl st).

Make 2 sl st going up in the next available stitches on the left side. Turn your work. 
Make 4 hdc, evenly spaced out. You can work in the hdc's of the previous round and in the spaces next to them. End with 2 sl st going up the right side.

Make 2 sl st going up in the next available stitches. Turn your work.

Make 5 hdc, space them out evenly. End with 2 sl st going up.

Make 2 sl st going up in the next available stitches. Turn your work.

Make 6 hdc, space them out evenly. End with 2 sl st going up.

Make 2 sl st going up in the next available stitches. Turn your work.

Make 7 hdc, space them out evenly. End with 2 sl st going up.

Make 2 sl st going up in the next available stitches. Turn your work.

Make 8 hdc, space them out evenly. End with 2 sl st going up.

This is where I stopped, but you could keep repeating this even more. Keep adding one hdc on each row. When you're done, fasten off and weave in the end.

Do this on both sides.

You are all done! 

This pattern is for personal use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please do not copy, redistribute, or republish the pattern in whole or in part. If you share your finished Triangles Bag online, please credit Kate's Cozy Crochet.

Finished your project?

I hope you enjoyed making this Triangles Bag. If you share your project on Instagram, I'd love to see it. Tag me at @katescozycrochet.

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